A Journey Through my Brain: The Shortest Straw- Solo

Prelude-

Thanks for coming and checking out my trip report. The text you find in blue was written from my journal while on the wall. The text in green is written as explanations to various climbing jargon for non-climbers. And the text in white is me talking now in the present, after having done the climb. If you are a climber reading this, I would suggest you simply skip past the green text. Some of the videos are short clips, and some of them are quite long. Aid climbing is like watching paint dry, and so if you aren’t super interested in the individual moves of the crux pitches, I might skip past and/or through those as well.

Climbing “solo” means I have no partner, but I do have the protection of a rope. Not to be confused with a “free solo”, which only one person has ever done on El Capitan. The solo process requires me to build an anchor and climb each pitch (100-200 sections of rock between anchors). I then rappel back down the pitch to the previous anchor, and then “jug” back up the rope. Jugging back up the rope is simply ascending the rope with teethed rope clamps. This process is known as “cleaning” the pitch, and is the method used to retrieve all of the gear I left in the rock to protect myself. Once back at the high point, I then “haul” the pitch. Hauling is the process of bringing all the gear from one anchor to the next. A pully system, that only feeds in one direction, is used and generally requires the person hauling to essentially squat the gear through the pulley. I used a 2:1 pulley system for the majority of this route. This makes the load half as heavy for me, but requires me to pull up twice as much rope.

The shortest Straw is graded either A4- or A3+ depending on where you look (even in the guide book it lists both grades on different pages). I haven’t climbed either grade before so I don’t feel like I can honestly fairly give my opinion on the matter. It was the hardest and most dangerous thing I’ve done for sure. It is a 12 pitch route that ends with the last 3 pitches of Zodiac (which I climbed at C3?) for a total of 15 pitches. While one of the shortest route on El Capitan, it is incredibly steep and intimidating with consistent difficulties. The day before I started up the wall Oliver Tippet and his partner Taylor Martin set the speed record on the route, doing it in just under 10 hours. I was close behind them with a staggering 12 nights spent on the wall. I was trying to get less night on the wall than they had hours, but alas, I’m not quite there yet.

Aid routes are graded either A1-A5 or C1-C4. The A simply means that a hammer is used and the C (clean) means no hammer is used. A1 or C1 is the easiest grade and meas that every piece you place will hold a fall. Whereas A5 is the hardest grade and generally means that a large series of pieces will only hold body weight, not a fall. A5 generally means that a fall in the wrong place would be catastrophic and would lead to serious death or injury.

Thursday 5/14 – Hiking loads up

Me with all my kit at the base of the route.

I arrived in the valley on Thursday May 14, 2026 and got straight to work, hiking up the first of several loads to the base of the wall. On the way down I ended up running into my old friend Bailey who I had climbed Skull Queen with back in the spring of 2024. If I recall correctly, that was his first successful wall. Perhaps I’m wrong about that. He’s been on an absolute tear since then. He was going for his 11th ascent of El Cap, and as I’m writing this he has just completed his 12th. We spent some time catching up and I learned that Bailey now lived in the Valley full time, giving up his big boy job to be able to climb more. I am definitely not jealous, I love my job, and wouldn’t leave it for anything. But sometimes I do wonder what I could accomplish if I could devote more time to The Valley.

Bailey was fixed to the top of the third pitch on Mescalito. He would also be climbing solo about a half mile away from where I would be climbing. I would be able to see him and follow his progress as I climbed. Bailey mentioned wishing he could join me for The Straw. I wrote the following in my journal that night: “I thought about inviting him. Felt bad that I didn’t. It would be more fun. It would go faster. I would have more time to get more routes done. But it felt like bailing on myself. I want to solo it. To prove I can still do it. I’ve never felt as good, or as accomplished, as when I soloed The Muir. I want that feeling again. To feel truly great at something. Andy K once told me he wished he could solo The Captain again for the first time. Is that how I’ll feel? Like its not as good as the first time? probably.”

Bailey and I on Skull Queen Spring of 2024

Friday 5/15 – Fixed Pitch 1

The next day I woke up and met up with another friend of mine, Timmy, who I met on Zodiac in the fall of 2024. He was dirt-bagging in the valley and so I offered him some money to bring a load of gear up to the base for me. As he put it I was “feeding the wild life.” I was also able to get all of my water from horsetail falls, just to the right of my route, which saved me from having to hike up 80 lbs of water. I was bringing 10 gallons for a planned ascent of 10 days. I’m chronically dehydrated, and don’t drink that much water, so realistically that would get me through more days than that if it was needed. I chose to then climb and fix the first pitch. A note for non climbers, “fixing” means to leave the rope attached to the anchor and ascent the rope back to the high point at a later time.

A time lapse of me climbing the first pitch.

” It’s fucking nails. I might be in over my head. Will I have enough beaks? The hooking was tricky. Used the big hook twice; was good but had to place it blindly. Think I’m over-driving the beaks. Had to use the funk tool to get them all out. Spent 4 hours on lead. Jesus. Mountain Project calls this the warmup pitch. I nailed more on this pitch then I ever have in all my climbing combined. Lots of hooks too. Beaks and hooks are what I came for I guess. Very tired. This will be very challenging.”

Beaks are Pitons (metal “spikes) that slot into very small cracks/seams in the rock. You can just put them in by hand, but generally you hammer them into the rock with a hammer. A hook is a piece of metal that grabs onto the outside of the rock at irregularities or protrusions, but generally aren’t able to be left to protect you once you move past that piece. A “funk tool” is a a piece of metal that helps to remove Pitons that are difficult to remove from the rock.

Using a fulcrum to easily remove a beak.

Saturday 5/16 – Hauling

“3 Fucking rattlesnakes today. 1 rattled at me. I had stepped over a rock he was under. He was well within striking range, but treated me well. Hiked up the ledge and food and hauled P1. Going to commit to the wall tomorrow. Did some biking later in the day. Went to Curry and got a shower. Should have rested the legs, but the shower was nice. Excited for tomorrow. Weather looks good. A little nervous about time (I’m very slow), but it will be ok, so long as the water lasts and the weather holds. As you’ll read later, the weather did not hold.

One of three Rattlesnakes I encountered

Sunday 5/17 – Pitch 2/ windstorm

Just me talking to myself while getting pissed on.

My recollection of Pitch 2 is minimal to none. It must have been pretty chill. What I do remember from this day was what happened that night “Last night was treacherous. There’s a waterfall that hits my ledge periodically. I couldn’t find my bivy sack, which I think is buried at the bottom of the large haul bag. By the time I realized I needed the rain fly, a massive windstorm had come. This was not in the forecast. Wind gusts up to 50 MPH til 2 in the morning. The wind lifted the ledge completely into the air, with me still in it, and then dropped us back towards the earth. Gravity is a motherfucker. I was saved by the anchor and somehow wasn’t dropped out of the ledge itself. I didn’t sleep much, spending my time thinking about rocks in hopes to be heavier when the wind gusts came. I did manage to get the fly to lay over my upper half, which was good because when the wind finally left, the waterfall returned. I awoke to a soaked sleeping bag and a very slow start to the day.”

Monday 5/18- Journey Through The Brain

This pitch was one of the primary reasons I chose this route. I am drawn to named pitches. Who isn’t? If they’re worthy enough to get a cool name, it must be a good pitch of climbing. I had rappelled past this pitch in the fall of 2024 when fixing pitches on Zodiac. I remember looking at it and scoffing, telling myself I would never climb something this hard. When I got down from the wall several people asked about the brain. In hindsight, my response is laughable. I said it was chill, and not a big deal. Something told me that probably wasn’t true, and my memory had changed the experience once it was over. It was almost two weeks later that I would be on the ground. I returned to my journal to remind myself of the original experience.

“I have completed the Journey Through The Brain, a pitch that has consumed my mind for too long. It was hard. Mentally. I took a fall on it, but not in the dangerous section. A beak pulled and I fell maybe 10 feet with stretch. Caught by a purple totem. It was a lot of hooking and from the 2nd move of the pitch I was scared and thinking about bailing. My mind frustrates me. The pitch is fittingly named.

When I am here I am scared and want to be home with Maria. Sometimes I dream of kids and giving up climbing hard dangerous routes. When I’m not here its the only thing I want to do. Go climb El Cap. Go solo a wall. Why? When I’m on the wall alone the moments of true joy are rare and fleeting. I know this, and yet I continue to let it consume me. Why?”

A “totem” is a camming device often referred to as a “cam”. This is the most common kind of protection in climbing (aside from a bolt), as well as the most secure and easiest to place. Cams generally require bigger cracks and are less common on harder routes such as this one. On easier routes, you often only place cams, and don’t even bring a hammer.

The pitch itself was wonderful. The second move was hidden until I got high in my ladders, but then it showed itself. The climbing that’s actually in the “brain” part of the rock is not too bad. There are some fixed pieces and even a cam or two to be placed. Once out of the brain the hooking gets a little more serious, but again, all of the hooks are good. The end of the pitch is A2 and as previously mentioned, I did take a small fall after poorly placing a beak.

“Once I completed the Journey Through The Brain, I really should have cleaned and hauled the pitch. But alas, my brain was fried. So I set up camp beneath the waterfall again. This time I pre-deployed the rain fly. Tomorrow I have to clean and haul to start the morning. Then on to pitch 4, which looks much easier. I’m moving at a glacial pace. I already want to be done. My mind screams at me to bail while I still can. But then what? Be a failure again? Wish I could say I was having fun. Who does this for vacation?”

A long edited video of The Journey Through the Brain Pitch.

Tuesday 5/19- Pitch 4

“Today has been a good day. I think I’ve recovered mentally. That’s why it’s always best to sleep on it and not bail the second the idea enters your fragile mind. Pitch 4 was pretty chill. Quite enjoyable. The ending was a little tricky with a few beaks placed around a corner. Tomorrow’s pitch is another crux of the route. Maybe even THE crux? The rock is shit and it looks slightly confusing to navigate. I’m not too stressed about it right now. Maybe I will be when I’m actually in the choss. Completed my lead today in under 2 hours. Felt good about that. Definitely had time to lead pitch 5, but chose to set up camp and chill instead. Hope tomorrow goes ok.”

A “crux” simply refers to the hardest part of a given route. When there are multiple cruxes its simply pointing out the sections that standout as the most difficult. “Choss” is a term used to reference poor rock quality. Loose and/or hollow rock that is believed to be minimally attached to the wall.

Wednesday 5/20- Pitch 5 crux

” I’ve had an amazing day today. I climbed the second crux, which most people seemed to think was THE crux of the whole route. The first 50 feet or so was a massive choss pile, however I only used nuts, no cams, and felt pretty confident that nothing was going to rip. The last 15 feet or so was tricky getting to the rivet. I don’t know if what I did is standard, and am actually pretty sure it isn’t. I did a tension traverse to the left just after a fixed piece. From there some spicy, and natural, hooking moves saw me to the rivet. Definitely not what the topo shows, but it looked best to me, and it got me out of the choss for a bit. After the rivet it was mostly over.”

A nut is just a piece of metal that gets slotted into the rock. It does not move at all, and therefore only pulls down, not out on the rock. They should be slotted into constrictions where they physically cant come out of the rock when pulled down. A rivet is a small “bolt” in the wall. They are much weaker than standard bolts. They are cheaper and quicker to place in the rock, so they are often used to connect features in blank sections of rock. Lastly, a tension traverse is when you lower down and use the rope above you to move sideways across the rock, typically to a new feature/crack system.

A long edited video of the end of Pitch 4 into the crux of Pitch 5.



I had my first major hiccup of the route making a bit of a silly mistake. I have been using the back of my lead line to tag a bag up. This allows me to avoid having to carry my hauling equipment, haul line, and other miscellaneous gear that I think I won’t need, but might need, during the pitch. I accidentally left it partially clipped to the anchor and couldn’t pull it up. The pitch was too long and I wasn’t able to make it to the anchor without running out of rope. This required me to build an anchor mid pitch to go down and fix the problem. I began thinking of the guys at work telling me to Lock the fuck In.

“This bivy (top of 5) is awesome. There’s a little foot ledge you can traverse across that allows you to really spread out. Luxurious on this route. I did not think I was going to succeed 2 days ago, but now I’m nearly certain I will. This has been challenging, and it’s going slow, but I feel great about my effort and my abilities. I am behind schedule (though I think I have enough supplies to simply continue doing 1 pitch a day).” Pitch 7 looks outrageous from down here. Hopefully looks are deceiving.


This is how I brought up all 250 pounds of gear I had. Its a 2 to 1 pulley system. So if the gear weighs 250 pounds, it only takes 125 pounds of force to bring it up.

Friday 5/21- Pitch 7

An unedited video showing the end of Pitch 7 when I almost ran out of rope.

Saturday 5/23- Pitch 8

Heads are tiny pieces of aluminum or brass that have been pounded into small divets in the rock that won’t accept anything else because they are too shallow. They are also called bashies and copperheads. I usually call them bubblegum. They are a bit of a ticking time bomb. It is only a matter of time before they break, usually failing at the wire you clip into. While you could get lucky and they could catch a fall, they are generally considered body weight placements only. I typically dont use them for protection, so as to avoid having to replace them if I fell on them and they broke.

Sunday 5/24- Pitch 9

A short video of me rappelling down pitch 9, going past a flake I nearly pulled of.

5/25 Memorial Day- Pitch 10

5/22 Tuesday- Sun and Steel

Waking up in the clouds.
Waking up in the clouds.
A video of a rainbow as I mentally prepared for the Sun and Steel Pitch, the last crux of the route.
An unedited video of the hooking crux of the Sun and Steel pitch.
People seem to love the cloud photos.

5/27 Wednesday?- Peanut Ledge

Thursday-Saturday (5/28-5/30)

Me fiddlefucking my way slowly through the easiest pitch on the whole route.
A walk-through of how I break down my anchor to prepare to haul my gear up.
I believe this is the top of pitch 5? Picture was taken by a group on Zodiac, the only other people I interacted with for all 12 days I spent on the wall.

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